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100 or 200 amp service: how to tell what you have

The rating of your service is stamped on the main breaker, at the top of the panel. What decides an upgrade is neither its age nor its looks: it is what you want to add to it, and the load calculation that measures it.

August 11, 20267 min readMarc-André Vinet, master electrician
Residential electrical panel

The direct answer

The rating is the first number to know, and you can read it without a tool. The real question comes right after: is yours still enough for what you want to do.

A calculation answers that, not an impression. The rest of this article explains what that calculation looks at, and what it changes for your project.

Where to read the rating at home

Open the door of the panel. The main breaker is the biggest one, usually alone at the top or at the bottom of the column.

A number is stamped on its handle: 60, 100, 125 or 200. That is the rating of your service.

If the panel holds screw-in fuses instead of breakers, you have the answer to a different question: that panel is due for replacement, whatever the calculation says.

Main breaker at the top of a residential electrical panel
The number stamped on the handle of the main breaker is the rating of your service.

What each rating changes

A 60 amp service is not enough today for almost any addition, and several insurers refuse it.

A 100 amp service still suits a lot of homes, as long as no large continuous load is added to it. An EV charger is one of those.

A 125 amp service exists too, often on homes upgraded once already. It gives a bit of room, rarely enough for two large additions.

A 200 amp service leaves room for a charger, a hot tub, radiant floor heating or a heat pump. It is the rating we upgrade to when the calculation no longer passes.

Outdoor electrical connection for an inground pool
A pool, a hot tub or a charger are loads that add up.

The four reasons a panel gets upgraded

We replace or upgrade a panel for four reasons. They show up alone or together, and none of them has anything to do with how the box looks.

  1. You need to add circuits to it

    A full panel takes no more circuits. When a project calls for two or three more, the panel becomes the starting point of the work.

  2. It is no longer strong enough

    The load calculation goes past what the service can carry. That is not a comfort question, it is a capacity question.

  3. You are installing larger equipment

    A charger, a hot tub, radiant floor heating or a heat pump all get added to whatever is already running. Each one is calculated before it is ordered.

  4. It has to be moved

    A basement being redone, a wall coming out. A panel that changes location gets rebuilt anyway, and that is the right moment to revisit its rating.

Old crowded electrical panel in a basement
A full panel takes no more circuits, whatever shape it is otherwise in.

The age of the panel is not what decides

People often call us because a panel looks old, or because someone called it outdated in passing. That is not what decides.

An older panel with breakers that hold and a proper ground is still doing its job.

A recent panel taking on a charger and a hot tub over a 100 amp service is not. The load calculation decides, the year of manufacture says nothing.

When 100 amps is still enough

A 100 amp service is not a deficient service. It still feeds plenty of homes in Montreal’s Southwest without the slightest problem.

We would rather say so, because the opposite sells better.

  • The heating runs on gas or oil, which frees up the biggest load in the house
  • The house has no EV charger, no hot tub and no radiant floor heating
  • The project underway only adds lighting and outlets
  • The panel keeps some slots, and the load calculation leaves room

What the load calculation actually looks at

The Code sets out a calculation method for a single family dwelling. It does not guess, it adds up.

  1. The living area

    It gives the base load of the dwelling, before a single appliance is looked at.

  2. Heating and air conditioning

    In an electrically heated home, this is the biggest load of them all.

  3. The fixed appliances

    Range, water heater, dryer, dishwasher. Each one enters at its real rating, not at an average.

  4. The special loads

    Charger, hot tub, radiant floor heating. A charger is calculated at 125% of its rated current, because it draws for hours at a stretch.

  5. The demand factors

    Nothing ever runs all at once, and the Code accounts for that. It is what keeps a service from being upgraded when it did not need to be.

Electrician running a load calculation at an open electrical panel
The total is compared with the rating of the service. If it does not pass, we know by how much.

Free slots do not mean capacity

This is the most common confusion. A panel can have six empty slots and no capacity available.

What counts is the sum of the loads already connected, calculated with the method set out in the Code. Free slots say nothing about that.

The reverse happens too: a panel with no free slot can still have capacity, and a tandem breaker sometimes settles the matter without touching the service.

Residential electrical panel with free slots
Free slots do not mean available capacity.

What a charger, a hot tub or a heated floor changes

Four additions come up constantly with our clients, and they are the ones that tip the calculation.

  • A level 2 EV charger: a dedicated circuit, often 40 amps, drawing for several hours at a stretch
  • A hot tub: the CMEQ applies a 100% demand factor to it, so it counts in full in the calculation
  • Radiant floor heating: its own circuit, sized for the area to be heated
  • A heat pump: we handle the wiring, and it adds to the heating already in place
Electrical connection for an outdoor hot tub
A hot tub counts in full in the load calculation.

What the job involves on site

A panel does not get replaced live. The power is off for the duration of the work, and we tell you when during planning.

The work takes from half a day to a full day, depending on how much has to be redone.

  1. We cut the power and remove the old panel

    The existing cables are identified, then the old panel comes out with the power off.

  2. We install the new panel

    With room left free for what comes next. A panel that is full on installation day is a panel to reopen at the next project.

  3. We transfer the circuits

    One by one, with the ground and the bonding redone whenever they no longer meet the Code.

  4. We label, verify and power back up

    Every breaker is labelled, the installation is verified, then powered back up with you.

Gloved hands connecting a supply cable inside an electrical panel
Transferring the circuits takes the most time. One year warranty, parts and labour.

Permits, declarations and licences

This question comes up at every visit, and the answer is simpler than people expect.

In most Montreal boroughs, an owner does not need a municipal permit for electrical work inside their own building. What is required is that the contractor hold the licences. We check what applies in your borough during the visit.

The declaration of work to the Régie du bâtiment, when it applies, is filed by the contractor under their licence numbers. Never by the owner, and it is included in the job.

The connection request to the distributor, when the service is upgraded, works the same way.

What drives the scope of the work

Two houses on the same street do not call for the same job. Here is what changes the scope of the work.

  • The mast and the meter base: if they have to follow, the job climbs to the roof instead of staying in the basement
  • The type of service: overhead or underground, the outside work and the paperwork are not the same
  • The ground and the bonding on the plumbing, often to be redone on an older installation
  • The number of circuits to transfer, since each one is moved over on its own
  • Moving the panel, which means extending or redoing cables
  • What we find once it is open: aluminum wiring, doubled circuits, breakers that do not match the gauge of the wire
Electrical service mast and meter base on the outside wall of a house
The mast and the meter base decide how far the job climbs.

What to send us to get an answer

Two things are enough to size up your project before anyone even comes out.

  • A photo of the panel with the door open, the main breaker handle and the circuit labels readable
  • The list of what you plan to add: charger, hot tub, radiant floor heating, heat pump, garage, addition
Marc-André Vinet, master electrician
Marc-André Vinet

Master electrician, RBQ licence 5855-0849-01 and CMEQ member 17468. About ten years in the trade across Montreal’s Southwest and the South Shore.

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Master electrician explaining the work to a client

Your questions

Frequently asked questions on this topic

The questions we get asked most often on this topic, answered without the runaround.

The rating is printed on the main breaker, the single one at the top of the panel: you will read 100, 125 or 200. If the panel holds fuses instead of breakers, it is an installation from another era, built for 60 or 100 amps: the main switch or the panel label confirms it. When in doubt, take a photo of the open panel and send it to us.

Not necessarily. We upgrade when there is no room left to add a circuit, when the service is no longer strong enough for what you want to install, when a bigger piece of equipment exceeds its capacity, or when the panel has to be moved. Plenty of homes run fine on 100 amps. The load calculation decides, not the age of the panel.

Neither age nor looks decide. A thirty-year-old panel that is properly loaded and in good shape can stay in service. Two exceptions: a fuse panel and a model whose breakers are no longer made both get replaced, because nothing more can safely be added to them.

From half a day to a full day depending on the complexity. The power is off during the work. What lengthens the job is what we find behind it: a mast to replace, a meter base, a grounding system to redo or an underground service.

In most boroughs, an owner has no municipal permit to request for electrical work in their own building. What is required is that the contractor holds their RBQ and CMEQ licences. The declaration of work to the Régie du bâtiment is on us and it is included in the job.

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